Curved Blockfront Lowboy Kneeblocks & Finials Step 8

Today I started working on the knee blocks.   I had cut off 2 inches from the top of each leg stock before creating the cabriolet legs. I numbered them so I would know which belonged to each leg.

If  I am careful I will orient the grain to match the knees on the legs.

I made a cardboard template of what I think the knee block should look like and test fit the area.

I traced the shape on the block of wood and cut it out on the bandsaw.

At this point it needs to be shaped.

I put a screw in the back of the knee block so I can clamp it in the vise. 

I am using a Nickelson #50 rasp to take off the extra material and shape the knee block. I use files to smooth out the rasps marks later.

This is a pretty good shape and grain match.

I cut out and glued on all of the knee blocks. I only apply glue to the side of the knee block that touches the knee.  Not to the back of the knee block, that allows the wood behind it to move freely.

I left them a little proud so they can be pared off flush when the glue dries.

I use a sharp paring chisel to trim off the excess and a file to remove the excess on the bottom curve inside the knee.

The one on the right side of the knee is complete.  I like how the grain matches.

I started to work in the finials.  I did not shoot any new video of the turning of the finials but there is a video from the last time I made this piece here. Curved Blockfront Dressing Table Drop Finials Step 23  Here is a couple of shots from that video.

These finials came out a little better than the last time since I was able to turn the little ball on the end as one piece.  The last time I turned the little ball separate and glued it on. 

They also need what I call a washer which goes between the apron and the finial to create a transition from one to the other.

There it is all complete. I will glue in the finials just before I start the finishing of the piece.

Next post will be the top and the hardware.

Here is today's video: