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Monday, May 6, 2019

Chipman Oxbow Chests Finishing and Complete Step 9

I am working on the lock mortises today.  They are always trouble.  I don't have one of the special chisels for chopping them out, the chisels seemed to expensive to me, and it would get very little use.

I have made a small chisel from an old file. The tip is under 1/4 inch. It is short enough to chop out a mortise in a 3 1/2 inch drawer opening.

 I used lipstick on the lock bolt/striker to apply a mark on the under side on the drawer runner. Now I know where to chop out the mortise.  I make it a little bigger than need be because the drawers can move from side to side a little and I don't want the lock to bind.

After chopping out the mortises I turn the chest right side up and test to make sure all the locks fit.

 After I completed sanding the chests to 180, I wiped them down with alcohol to remove the dust. I do not plan to stain these pieces since they seem dark enough already and staining hides the grain.
Now I tape masking paper on the chest and drawers to keep the spray from going where I don't want it.

I sprayed a total of 5 coats of  2# cut of shellac.  I used 400 grit wet and dry sand paper after the first and fourth coats.  The fifth coat was then applied after it was smooth.

Still more work to do.  After waiting a couple of days to dry. I rubbed the surface with 0000 steel wool. Not the 0000 from the hardware store but either Briwax or Liberon 0000 steel wool.

I wear a mask while sanding and rubbing out with steel wool.  Too much dust for me.

Lastly I apply Minwax special dark wax and buff it to a soft shine.  Then I put the hardware back on.
Here is the finished product.

Here is today's video:

Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Chipman Oxbow Chests Making Tops & Drop Finials Step 8

Time to get started on the tops of the chests.  First I mill the material from a set of book matched mahogany boards.

I hand plane them because I do not have a jointer that is wider than 8 inches and these boards are 15 inches each.

Once I get them flat, I glue them up and cut them to size 23 1/2 x 39 inches.  Then I trace the pattern on the front edge using a template I made in the beginning for the bottom molding.

Then I saw out the pattern with a jig saw and clean it up so it is smooth for the router bearing.

Then I run it across the router table and put an ogee on the edge. It takes 5 passes, going deeper with each pass.
Then I clean up the routed edge to get it ready to carve the "baby butt corners". I have a video from the last time I made these and it shows in great detail how to make these. It is here

Curved Blockfront Dressing Table Carving Baby Butt Corner Step 25

Here are a few pictures of the process.

Now the tops are completed and they look good.

One more construction detail to work on is the drop finial on the bottom molding. I have a cardboard template for the shape.

It has some complex curves.   The pattern is cut out on a band saw. Then the curve that matches the top of the bracket feet is cut across the edge to made a curved front.

Then a curve across the bottom molding where it will be glued on.

After gluing on the drop finial, I sanded the entire piece through 100, 120, 150 and 180 grit sand paper.

Now I am ready for finishing. I experimented with several dyes before settling on a color and process..

 Here is a sample of what it should look like when finished.

Next step is to glue up the drawers and get ready for the finishing.

Here is today's video:

Sunday, March 31, 2019

Chipman Oxbow Chests Mounting Hardware Pulls & Locks Step 7

Time to mount the hardware on the drawers before they are glued up. It is much easier to work on them before they are assembled.

I used the photos of the original chests to determine how they were mounted.  All of the pulls were mounted in the center of the drawers 3 inches from the beginning of the curve.  I drilled the holes on a drill press with the angle set to 7 degrees off of 90 degrees.  This made the posts fit the curve fronts correctly. 

Once I had drilled the holes, I then bent the back plates to fit the curves.  I used a block that had a tighter radius than the drawer fronts.  I used a strap clamp to bend the plates over the block and then tapped them with a dead blow hammer.

This bent them a little more than the curve.  But the posts and the brass relaxes will have them fit perfect.

The posts and the bale are fitted to the holes. The posts are square on the top and threaded on the rest.
I tap the posts into the round hole with the wooden end of the hammer.

There is one all mounted.  I don't put the nuts on the back at this time since I am going to take them off to assemble the drawers and put the finish on.

Here are all the brasses mounted, they look real good.

Now I take the brasses off and get started on mounting the locks and escutcheons.
Using the locks and cardboard templates I mark out where the locks should be in the center of the drawer.  I saw the lines on the center deep mortise, then chop out most of the waste.  Since the backs are curved I made a jig that is parallel to the front.  Then using my router plane I finish the mortise with it.
The shallow mortise for the lock back is cut out with the router plane nice and flat.

Cutting out the mortise.

Once I cut out the back mortises, I need to cut out the mortise on the top for the lock.
I turn the lock upside down and trace the size.

Then I use the router plane to cut out the top mortise.

Now that the three mortises are cut out, I can fit the lock. If I am careful it should fit exactly.  The pin in the center of the lock for the key is extend beyond the front of the lock. So it is still in the way of the lock fitting flush.

I use the wooden end of the hammer to tap on the lock pin to make a dent in the inside of the lock mortise. This leaves a reference dent so I can drill.

Then I use a 1/16 inch drill bit to make a pilot hole from the back in the drawer front.

Then I turn the drawer front over and drill the large hole using the pilot hole for reference

Now that the hole is drilled the lock fits right into the mortise. Nice fit, no gaps.

And the pin is exactly in the center of the hole.

Now I have to cut the key hole.

 I have to bend the escutcheon in the reverse direction since the drawer front bends inward. I do this the same way I did the back plates for the pulls.

I center the escutcheon on the hole and measure to make sure that it is straight

Then trace the key hole and nail holes on to the drawer front.

Now that I have the pattern, I can saw it out with my keyhole saw.

I clean up the hole with a round file.

I fit the lock back in and test it out with the key.

I works just fine.

Then I pre-drill the holes for the escutcheon plate. I tap in the nails just a little bit because I am going to take them off.

I test the lock again with the key with the escutcheon plate on to make sure the key slides in easy.

That all there is, all I have to do is repeat this seven more times and I am all done.

Now that I am done with the hardware, I am going to work on the tops for the chest next.

Here is today's video: