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Monday, August 12, 2019

Penn Chippendale Slant Front Desk Building the Gallery Pt I Step 10

 Time to get started on the gallery. I have built two other galleries which were copies of a particular piece.  This slant front is not a copy of one piece but a conglomeration of features that I like. The gallery that I like is from Fine Woodworking Magazine March April 2002.  Lonnie Bird.
I will modify the size and some of the features but on the whole it is a good start.

Of course I made a story stick with the layout.  I will also use it as a template for routing the pattern.

 I am going to need a lot of thin 3/16 and 3/8 cherry and poplar, so I re-sawed a bunch and stickered it so that it would be stable by the time I needed to use it.

I used a piece of pine to practice making the base and testing my template story stick. I roughed out the curves with a jig saw. Then used a flush trim bit to get them smooth.  Then I used a 3/8 inch round over bit on the 1/2 stock leaving a 1/8 inch fillet.

 One tricky part is the bump out for the document folders.  You have to cut away the round over and insert a 7/8 inch piece.  It was good to practice because I want a nice tight fit.

Using the round over bit on the router table. The template is only half of the pattern. I turn it over and use it on the other side to complete the pattern.

 I cut out the round over portion of the edge with a chisel where the bump out is going to be. I used a 45 degree guide block and hand saw to cut the miters in the corners of the opening.

I made the little pieces by screwing a piece of pine to be bottom as a template.  Routing the edges with the round over.  Then using the chop saw cut the 45 miter on each corner at 7/8.  Then I ripped off the 7/8.

Chop saw for the partial 45 on the piece.

Ripped of the 7/8 inch that I needed.

I need to glue in the base so that I can route the dados for the vertical divider panels. This way I can use templates to guide the router for the top and bottom dados that are needed.

I am using my small trim router and a 3/8 inch bit 3/16 deep. You can see the guide template to my right, just a piece of 1/4 inch plywood.   I'll use the same template on the top underside dado.
These are stopped dados 3/8 of an inch from the front.

Had to turn the desk upside down to route the matching dados in the underside of the top. You can see I have it clamped to the work bench so it won't tip over.

Here all of the dados are cut including the 3/16 inch side dados for the horizontal drawer dividers. They are all stopped dados.

I made this template to match the curve of the drawer fronts and horizontal dividers. 

The vertical dividers have a twin bead on the front edges. It is suppose to make it look like two 3/16 inch panels together.  To make the beads, I am using a home made scratch stock and a bit from Lie-Nielsen. If I did not have it already I could have made it from a piece of scrap metal band saw blade.
I used just two of the three curves on the bit.

It did not take much work to scratch in the beading on the edge.  I did use a little sand paper to clean up the edges.

I cut them to size and slipped them into the dados.  They fit nice and snug.

I marked the top and bottom edges on the front and still need to cut out the 3/8 inch notch on the top and bottom so the panels can slip forward to the correct position.That would complete the vertical dividers.

That's it for Part I of the Gallery.  Next will be the horizontal dividers and drawer fronts.

Here is today's video:

Thursday, August 8, 2019

Penn Chippendale Slant Front Desk Making the Drawers Step 9

I made the drawer fronts some time ago, now I need to make the drawers themselves.

I am using pine as a secondary wood.  The sides are 7/16 and the backs are 1/2 inch.

I have completed one to show the dovetail pattern.

The pattern that I selected is functional in that it has 4 tails to hold things together. The pins are only an 1/8 inch apart at the top which make them a little decorative. There is 1/2 on the bottom tail so that it will hide the groove for the drawer bottom and leave 1/4 inch under it.

I am not going to vary the number of dovetails for each drawer but enlarge the tails for each drawer as the drawers get larger.
I make the tails first and then transfer the pattern to the drawer fronts and back.

Cutting out the pins now, I make sure that the saw kerf is on the waste side of the line.  The line is actually part of the pin.

The saw kerf is well past the mark on the inside. This is common to see on 18th century furniture.

Chopping out the pins.

Once the pins are chopped out, I fit the sides to the front and back. This drawer was a little tight when I fit it to the opening.  I am planing of a little to make it fit.

Now it fits pretty good, I will do final fitting after they are glued up.

I use a slot cutter in the router to cut slots in the front and sides for the drawer bottom. The slot is 1/4 inch from the bottom and 1/4 inch wide.  The back of the drawer is cut off so the bottom can be slipped in after gluing.

Time to glue up the drawer. I use Old Brown Glue for almost all of my furniture. Animal glue has a long open time.

I am using birch plywood for bottoms. I slide it in from the back while I was gluing up the drawer.  It is not necessary to put the bottoms in at this time but I did it because I had the bottoms ready.

I clamp up the sides with parallel clamps and check for square. I put a couple of nails in the back to hold in the bottom when the glue is dry.

That is all there is to it.  Repeat the process four times.   I did use a hand plane to adjust the fit on a couple of the drawers.

The next step will be to begin work on the gallery.

Here is today's video:

Sunday, July 28, 2019

Pennsylvania Chippendale Slant Front Desk New Desk Lid Step 8

It has been several months since I have made a post.  I have been working on honey do's and other house maintenance projects.

I thought I would get back to a project that I started about 2 years ago. When I last worked on it, I was making the drawers.  But now I see that the desk drop lid has warped and twisted.  There does not seem to be anything that I can do but make a new desk lid.

First I start with a flat 14 inch wide piece of cherry from that same batch that I have made all of the other chest parts.  It is important so the color will all be the same.
I am using a dado set to cut 1 1/8 inch tenons on each end.  The tenons are 5/16 inch thick.

Now that the tenons are on, I marked out 1 inch from either end and each of the 3 tenons will be 2 1/2 inches wide.

I cut them out with a coping saw, leaving a 1/4 haunched tenon over the entire length

Now I am cutting a 5/16 inch dado down the center of the bread board ends.

Using my hollow chisel mortiser, I put a 1 1/8 deep mortise 2 1/2 wide to match the tenons on the bread board ends.

After planing off a little bit of the tenons, I dry fit the bread board ends.

Now I drilled 1/4 inch holes in the ends of the bread board and tenons.  I made 1/4 inch cherry pegs to hold it in place.
I applied glue to only the center tenon and glued the pegs in all three holes.

Gluing and pounding in the pegs after compressing the ends with clamps.

After the glue dried, I trimmed off the pegs with a flush cut saw and paring chisel.

Then I added a 7/16 x 1/2 inch dado around 3 sides of the lid.  Notice that I stopped the cut on the lower corners and cut the lid at an angle so that it hides the gap on the side of the lid.

The I added a 1/4 inch round over with a fillet all the way around the lid.

Time for a dry fit.  I did have to plane the dado a little to make the lid fit well.

I need to add the hinge mortises.  I used a knife to mark where the hinges should be and then I used my router plane to cut out the mortises.

I used a self centering drill bit to pilot the holes for the hinges and then put in the screws.

Swing the lid closed and it fits pretty good.  

Now I have to take it off and sand it.  Hope this one doesn't warp. Now on to the drawers.

Here is today's video: