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Friday, July 28, 2017

Curved Blockfront Lowboy - Finishing Step 11

This is an abbreviated post about what I did to finish the lowboy.  Most of the time was spent mixing dye to find a color that I liked.  This takes quite a bit of time.  I sand samples to 180 grit, then spray with 1/2 pound cut of shellac as a sealer.  Then spray the dye color, rub it out. Then spray with shellac.

Then I don't like the color and start all over. Eventually I find something that I like, and my wife does the checking.

Once I have the dye mix, I am ready to go on the piece.

I sand using an orbital sander on the flat surfaces and by hand on the curved surfaces.
I usually sand to 180 grit, going further to 220 or 320 seems to fine to take the dye properly.

 I have sanded the piece to 180 grit and use a tack rag to remove the dust. I masked all of the parts that I don't want to get finish on.

The first step is to put 1/2 lb cut of shellac on the cherry as a sealer to help keep the dye even.  This also helps keep the endgrain from getting too dark.

Once the 1/2 lb cut shellac is dry, I sand lightly with 320/400 grit sand paper to remove the fuzzy feeling left behind.  Then I use a tack rag to remove the dust.

Now I am ready to spray an alcohol based dye.  I am using a mix of Behlan and Lockwood dyes to get the desired color.

I have an inexpensive HVLP sprayer from Earlex HV5500. With 1.0 mm tip.  The dye with alcohol is a very thin product.

I use a light application so that I can apply it to get the color I want and get it even. I am wearing a mask and hearing protection.

After the dye has dried I rub it out with a 3m Scotchbright gray color pad.  This makes it smooth and even.

Then I applied one coat of Boiled Linseed Oil.  Left it on for 5 to 10 minutes and them wiped it off.
This helped emphasize the grain.  I waited a day before the next step.

Spraying the 2lb cut of Blonde Shellac with a 1.5 mm needle tip. This mixture is thicker than the dye.
I use a 400 grit sandpaper between coats to keep it smooth.  I sand very lightly.  I usually apply 3 or 4 coats.

After the last coat of shellac, I use the gray Scotchbright pad to knockoff the shine.  And then apply a paste wax for the final shine.

Then I remount the hardware.

Here it is all finished.

The shop lights are somewhat deceiving to the camera, here is a picture in natural sun light. It will darken with age.

Here is today's video:

Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Curved Blockfront Lowboy Routing the Top & Carving Step 10

The next step in the process was to cut out the curves on the top to match the curves of the drawer fronts.  I used an extra drawer blade as a template to trace the curves.

I have an ogee bit which can put the edge on the top that I need. It takes 3 passes with the router as I raise the bit a little each time.  After that I put a 1/4 inch round over on the bottom to meet the ogee from the top.

Now I need to carve the four corners of the top with what I call the baby butt corner, some people call them notched corners.   I have carved this shape before but I thought I would carve a practice one to re-familiarize myself with the shape.

Below is the practice one sitting on the top.  I have marked out the design on the bottom of the lowboy top.  This is a 3/8 inch radius on either side set 1 inch back.

I need to turn it over and put the 1/4 inch radius circles on the top.

I cut out the 3/8 radius circles on the bottom with a saber or jig saw.  I need to set in the top circles with my carving chisels, I use a number 5.  And then start to carve the shape.

I start by making a groove down the center and extending the cove at the top of the ogee into the valley created by the groove.

I am using a 1/2 inch #3 to round over the lower portion of the ogee.

Here I am continuing to round over the lower portion of the ogee.

I have turned over the top and am extending the 1/4 round over which is on the bottom into the 3/8 inch radius curve.

This doesn't take too long but you have to watch the direction of the grain so that is does not chip off.

I have the shape that I want so all there is to do is clean up the rough chisel marks.  I am using a fine almond shaped file here to smooth over the corners.  I will sand to 180 later when I do the rest of the lowboy.

One done and 3 to go.

There is a detail video on the carving here:Curved Blockfront Dressing Table Carving Baby Butt Corner Step 25

Well, I have completed all four and positioned the top on the case.  I need to mark where the screws will go and drill the holes.  Then take it off to prepare for finishing.

The construction is complete.  Unfortunately there is nothing left to do but sand and finishing.

These are the tasks for me that are not too much fun.  But I have to do them next.

Here is today's video: