Then I don't like the color and start all over. Eventually I find something that I like, and my wife does the checking.
Once I have the dye mix, I am ready to go on the piece.
I sand using an orbital sander on the flat surfaces and by hand on the curved surfaces.
I usually sand to 180 grit, going further to 220 or 320 seems to fine to take the dye properly.
I have sanded the piece to 180 grit and use a tack rag to remove the dust. I masked all of the parts that I don't want to get finish on.
The first step is to put 1/2 lb cut of shellac on the cherry as a sealer to help keep the dye even. This also helps keep the endgrain from getting too dark.
Once the 1/2 lb cut shellac is dry, I sand lightly with 320/400 grit sand paper to remove the fuzzy feeling left behind. Then I use a tack rag to remove the dust.
Now I am ready to spray an alcohol based dye. I am using a mix of Behlan and Lockwood dyes to get the desired color.
I have an inexpensive HVLP sprayer from Earlex HV5500. With 1.0 mm tip. The dye with alcohol is a very thin product.
I use a light application so that I can apply it to get the color I want and get it even. I am wearing a mask and hearing protection.
After the dye has dried I rub it out with a 3m Scotchbright gray color pad. This makes it smooth and even.
Then I applied one coat of Boiled Linseed Oil. Left it on for 5 to 10 minutes and them wiped it off.
This helped emphasize the grain. I waited a day before the next step.
Spraying the 2lb cut of Blonde Shellac with a 1.5 mm needle tip. This mixture is thicker than the dye.
I use a 400 grit sandpaper between coats to keep it smooth. I sand very lightly. I usually apply 3 or 4 coats.
After the last coat of shellac, I use the gray Scotchbright pad to knockoff the shine. And then apply a paste wax for the final shine.
Then I remount the hardware.
Here it is all finished.
The shop lights are somewhat deceiving to the camera, here is a picture in natural sun light. It will darken with age.