Cherry Oxbow Chest - Making the Drawer Bottoms - Step 12

At this point I could go to the big box store and buy some 1/4 inch plywood and cut it to fit in the drawer bottoms, but that would not be period like....  When I first started making furniture that is what I did based on the fact that if period furniture makers had plywood they would have used it.

Today, I make solid wood bottoms, it takes a little longer but a solid panel bottom is what people expect.  The bottoms are often made of pine but I don't have enough to make all of them and obtaining clear pine is not easy or cheap.   Soft maple is inexpensive and I always have plenty on hand.

The drawer bottoms are 32 1/2 x 18 1/2 inches with the grain running parallel to the front.  This allows for the expansion of the bottom out the back of the drawer.  I decided to make the drawer bottoms 7/16 inch thick so I can resaw the maple and not get a lot of waste.

Each of the boards is about 8 inches wide, so it will take 3 boards to glue up to get the required width.

I try to keep them as flat as possible when I glue them up by using culls.

After the glue dries I'll use my wide belt sander to flatten and clean them up.

I traced the curve from the inside of the drawer front on to the drawer bottom and then cut out  the pattern on the band saw.  I cleaned up the edge after sawing with the spindle sander.

Next I have to add a bevel to the bottom of the panel so that it will fit into the 1/4 inch grove in the sides and the front.  The straight edges could be done with a panel raising plane but the curved edges need to be done another way.   I have a large router bit that is a horizontal panel raiser.  I use it at a low speed and make several light passes to get it to the thickness that I want.  It does a nice job on the curved front.  

Below is the finished bevel.  I test fit it into the grove to make sure it is thin enough.  

For the straight groves on the drawer sides, I use my plow plane.  I could have used a dado blade or router bit to cut the grooves but I like to use hand planes too and they are quieter.  There are 8 sides to do.

For the curved drawer fronts, I go back to the router with a 1/4  inch slot clutter.  It makes quick work of the curved slot.

I cut off a 1/2 inch on the drawer backs to make an opening to slide in the drawer bottom.  If everything is correct it slips right in.

Look's like a good snug fit.  The back is slightly proud but that is the way it was done in the 18th century.

The bottom bevel fits well into the groove.  I will nail the bottom to the back with a couple of small brads after the drawer is glued together.

Now I have to glue up the drawers and make the chest top.  I ordered the hardware yesterday so it should be here very soon.  Once the top is made, I need to make a back and the chest construction will be complete.   Then on to finishing.

Here is today's video: