I start by putting a 45 degree miter on the edge of one piece. I use a flush cut saw and a block as a guide.
I only need 1/8 of an inch of the miter on the front edge since this is the amount that the bead sticks out from the front.
So the back part of the miter is waste, I cut it off flush with my small saw. First a stop cut at 1/8 inch.
Then saw off the back portion of the miter flush.
That's it. Just that small little 1/8 inch miter.
Then I cut it to length to fit in the drawer opening. This is the bottom drawer so there is only a miter on the top corner, the bottom is flush
You can see the little bead overlap the bead on the drawer divider.
That is where the miter needs to be on the drawer divider. I use a chisel here as a marking knife. You could use other marking devices but a knife I think is most accurate.
The pare or saw off the little corner carefully.
Now it should just slip into the slot.
Pretty good fit.
The next one has two miters, one at the top and one at the bottom. But the process is still the same, just have to measure carefully. If it isn't right throw it away and make another one.
After going all around the drawer openings, I used hide glue and lots of clamps to glue them in to the chest.
While that is drying it is time to start on the curved bracket feet.
I have a copy of Antiques Magazine from December 1987 which has an article about John Chipman and his furniture. The great thing is there is a picture of the under side of the chest of drawers. I can see how he constructed and attached the feet.
The cardboard template I used is from the pictures and drawings I made in the beginning. It is 6 inches high and 9 1/4 inches long.
This side piece is 1 inch thick, the front piece is 1 3/8 inches thick. I cut out the patterns on a bandsaw.
The curved portion is carved. This is a sample foot out of poplar which is too flat, the curve needs to be larger. So I will alter the carving process.
All done. Take the tape off the top.
One done. For the rear feet, I'll go over that later. For the front side feet I have to put a 45 miter on the front and glue it to the larger front foot.
Here is one completed foot. I like the carving on the front leg. It is bold like the original.
In this picture you can see the side and front foot mitered and glued together. I pre-glue the miter and let the glue soak into the end grain of the miter, then wipe it off and let it dry. This pre-conditions the miter so the glue stays in the joint.
I used a band saw to hog out the lower area of the foot where there is nothing behind it. The upper part is flat and has to be carved to the correct shape.
The miter is on the back corners so the 3/8 of an inch is exposed in the front and has to be carved off to make a good miter.
I mark a line where I want the curved part to begin and make a stop cut .
I put the foot under the chest and trace the edge of the chest on the top of the foot. That is the line I need to carve to.
Now I need to remove large chunks of waste from the front.
Unfortunately, the grain runs back to front so carving is a little more difficult.
It doesn't take too long to get close to the edge. I switch to a rasp and files for the last 1/32 of an inch.
All cleaned up here.
Now to carve the curved part. It is curved front to back and side to side.
I go slow, checking the curve against the underside of the chest often.
Two done. Now for the back feet.
The back foot is just one inch thick as I viewed it from the picture in the magazine of the original. Mr. Chipman was stingy with the expensive mahogany.
It did not look strong enough to me. So I made a sub-foot out of poplar and dovetailed the corner.
The side is in the shape of the mahogany foot but slightly smaller.
Then this whole assembly will be glued to the bottom of the chest, along with glue blocks.
That is it for the curved bracket feet.
Next, I will glue them on and start work on the drawer fronts.