Making Progress on the Townsend Card Table Prototype

I completed the profile drawing of the table and made some decisions about the size of the table.
So far the table is 28 inches tall to the first top, if the second half of the top is folded over and closed on the the first top it would be 28 3/4 inches.  The width of the table is 33 1/2 inches which includes 3/4 inch overhang along the edge.
I created a cardboard template of the ball and claw leg and traced it on to a piece of African Mahogany which I had in the wood storage pile.  African Mahogany is not a mahogany but it's real name is Khaya.  It looks a little like mahogany but costs about half as much.  Since I had the 12/4 stock it should work ok to build a prototype leg.
After tracing, I bandsaw the leg on one side and tape it back together and then bandsaw the other.
Now I have the rough leg, tomorrow I will smooth it out with a spokeshave and other hand tools.
So here is today's video:

Townsend Card Table - Step 1 Estimate Dimensions and Make Drawings

I have researched the John Townsend Card Table from books and publications about as thorough as I can.  I would like to see one but there are none within a short driving distance.  I could go to Winterthur but that is not a short drive.  I am going to Williamsburg in the next few weeks but I don't know if they have one in their museum.
So, I have made some large pictures and hung them on the shop wall, I usually do this with my projects.  I gives me inspiration and it helps me fix in my mind what I am trying to accomplish.
I don't have much as far as dimensions for the table, in all of the books I have copied down the Length, Width and Height as they have described it.  None match, so I am going to use them as a guide and do my own thing.  When it comes to height I am going to use 28" to the top of the table.  There is by my estimate a 5 inch apron.  So, that only leaves 22 1/4 clear under the table apron for your legs.  That should be enough but if I made it shorter like some of the books have described then I don't think most people would be able to get their legs under the apron. I am assuming that someone may want to use this table sometime for card play.
The width right now is 34 1/2 inches,  I am not firm on this and won't know until I build a mock up.
I started by drawing the cabriolet leg.  I spent a lot of time trying to duplicate the shape of the curve that I see in the pictures.  In the next video, I will trace it out on poster board and use it for a template and cut out one leg.
So here is today's video:

Starting a New Project - Townsend Card Table

I am excited about a piece of furniture I have seen in a book John Townsend Newport Cabinetmaker from the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The book is available in pdf located here: http://www.metmuseum.org/research/metpublications/John_Townsend_Newport_Cabinetmaker.
Here is the card table that I am going to build

This picture is from the book, I am not sure if I can post the image here but the book and picture seem to be in the general domain.
Tables like this are attributed to both Goddard and Townsend.  As near as I can tell the main difference between the two is the way that they carved the ball and claw feet.  The styles of feet are well documented.  I happen to like the Townsend foot better than the Goddard.  This table also appears in the Master Craftsmen of Newport, The Townsends and Goddards by Michael Moses.
These books document the difference between Townsend and Goddard feet as well as some of the construction techniques.
There are some new challenges for me in this piece, the Townsend ball and claw is new to me and there are two knuckle joints (wood hinges) on the back legs so they can swing out to support the half of the table top when open.
I only have general dimensions of the table height, width and depth.  And I am not sure what it is that they are measuring.  For example, when they measure the height are they measuring it closed?
If it was closed, that would mean that 1 1/2 inches is consumed by the 2 top thicknesses.
If they measured it open then it would be only 3/4's' of an inch.
So I am going to have to build a prototype to see how it looks.  I am going to start by making a leg and a portion of the apron.  This should show me how it is going to look.
After I get a good looking leg, I am going to make full size drawings.
The main wood used for the table is mahogany but for the prototype I will probably use maple because it is cheap and I have some.
I keep you posted on my progress.

Completed the Audio Cabinets for my neighbor

There was not much remaining to do.  I had applied the stain to the large cabinet and let it dry.  Then I applied the hardware to secure the top and the bottom of the cabinet.  Now it was time to spray satin lacquer.  After letting it dry over night I rubbed it out with 0000 steel wool while applying a dark paste wax.
I made the dark paste wax by melting the paste wax in boiling hot water.  Like a double boiler.  Once the wax melted I added the stain that I used on the piece.  I just added it until it was dark when I applied it to some wood. .  Once it was mixed, I put it in the freezer for about 15 minutes to re-harden the wax for applying.  I used it like regular wax.  After that I applied a regular wax to raise the sheen.
So now both cabinets are complete.  On to the next project.
Here is today's video:

Finishing up on the small audio cabinet and glue up of the large cabinet

I have sprayed lacquer on the small cabinet a couple of days ago.  So it is ready for rub out, wax and assembly.  I rubbed paste wax on with 0000 steel wool.  This removed the dust nubs and applied the wax. I rubbed it out with a cotton cloth.  This left a hand rubbed satin finish on the small cabinet.
I attached the top to the small cabinet with metal fasteners which allow for wood movement.
I also glued up the large cabinet.  I did it in two steps.  First I glued up the 2 sides. let them dry for a few hours and then I glued up end panels which completed the glue up process.  Doing it in 2 steps made it much simpler.
I am on waiting for it to dry.  Tomorrow I will spray the lacquer finish, then I will have to wait for it to cure for a couple of days before the rub out.
So here is today's video:

Today the Glue Up of the Small Audio Cabinet

Yesterday I completed the staining of the small audio cabinet.   Today it is dry enough to do the glue up.   I glued up the two side panels this morning.  Then I went shopping for lacquer and more stain.  When I got back the panels glue was dry enough for me to glue up the rest. 

I did try out my new spray gun with the lacquer on a test board.  I got it from Harbor Freight for $30, the guys in our SAPFM meeting said that these cheap guns are as good as the expensive ones, so I am going to give them a try.

Today's video is kind of short with just the glue up and clamping.

Back to Working on the Audio Cabinets

Now that I have finished the TV cabinet for my wife, I can get back to working on the two audio cabinets for my neighbor.  These are made from white oak and the finish that my neighbor wanted was a dark brown. He called it Espresso.  Well, Minwax makes an Espresso color so I bought that and another two colors that I thought would be darker.  As it turns out he still picked the Espresso color.  I think I learned something about psychology in this process.
I have one small hole that I need to fill on the large cabinet.  So, I made my home brew wood filler.  I made some sanding dust from a scrap piece of white oak and then used some hide glue (old brown glue) to hold it together.  The object is to get more wood than glue in a paste ball.  Once I made the filler I pushed it in the hole and let it dry.  Then is sanded it flush.  One benefit from doing it this way is that it take the stain like the wood so it is an invisible repair.
I was not sure what the coverage would be with the Minwax stain so I decided to apply it to the small cabinet first to see how much it used.   Now that I have applied the stain, I have some left over so another small can should be enough to finish the project.
I sanded the small cabinet to 180 grit and applied the stain, waited 15 minutes before wiping of the excess as directed by Minwax.  Looks good.  Now I have to  wait for it to dry and then spray satin lacquer for the final finish.
Here is today's video:

Completed the TV Cabinet for my wife

In case you forgot I put 7 coats of Waterlox tung oil varnish on the TV cabinet that I am making for my wife. Ten days ago I put on the last coat.   I put it aside while I started making the audio cabinets for my neighbor.
Well, it has been long enough for the finish to harden so that it can be sanded.
This time when I used Waterlox it collected a lot of dust.  So, I have to wet sand the finish with 400 grit wet or dry sand paper.  I usually do this with mineral spirits but I don't like the smell.  So I thought I would try using soapy water.  I was pleasantly surprised how well it worked and with out the smell and glove required with mineral spirits.
I sanded it and wiped it down and let it dry.  After that I applied a paste wax with 0000 steelwool and buffed out the finish.  It looks pretty good.
My wife and I moved it into the parlor where she watches TV.
Now I have to finish the audio cabinets for my neighbor.
Here is today's video:

 

Working on the Audio Cabinets

I have been working on the audio cabinets most of the week.  I cut the tenons on the smaller audio cabinet and then dry fit the legs and sides.   After that I cut 1/4 inch slots to hold the side panels.
I glued up the top 24 x 20 out of 3 pieces from the same board.  
After all of that I assembled the entire small cabinet.  I need the practice to prepare for the final glue up.
So here is today's video:

Started the Second Audio Cabinet

Well I started on the second audio cabinet today.  This one has legs, the other long one sits on the floor without legs.  After consulting Doug Moulder about the design of the legs, he suggested that the taper on the legs be about 1/4 inch and only on 2 sides.  I was going to taper all four sides but he suggested that it might look odd.
So I had to whip up a taper jig to cut 10 1/4 in taper on two sides of each leg.  I did that with 1/2 MDF and a scrap piece of maple.  The hold down clap I had on another jig, so I just pulled it off of the other jig. I spent more time making the jig than cutting the tapers.  I have another taper jig but it did not work for the kind of taper I wanted to cut on these legs.
Once I cut the tapers, I marked off the mortises on the legs.  Then I cut the side and front rails to size and left enough for a 1 inch tenon on each side.
Someone ask how I cut the tenons on the long rails in the last video, well in this video I show how I cut the tenons on the upper and lower rails on each of the pieces.  I used the same method on the long cabinet using my radial arm saw and dado blades.  I don't use it that often but this is a good application for that set up.
After I cut the tenons, I have started to drill out the mortises with my hollow chisel mortiser.  It makes quick work out of cutting mortises.  I bought it 10 years ago when I was making art and crafts chairs which had 60 mortises per chair and I made a set of 6.  It saved a lot of time.
So here is today's video:

Progress on the Audio and TV Cabinets

It has been a couple of days since I started on the Audio and TV Cabinets.  I have milled the stock and rough cut all of the material to the specifications in the drawings.  
I cut to length the material for the longer cabinet, mortised and tenoned the joints and fit the pieces together.  So far so good.   After fitting the frame, I cut dados in the rails and glued up the botton.
It is easier to see what I did in the video than for me to describe the steps.
Tomorrow is Easter Sunday so I will not be working in the shop.  But on Monday I will fit the bottom panel and start to work on the top.
Here is today's video:

New Project - Audio and TV cabinets for Neighbor

Well, a new neighbor came over and had heard that I do woodworking.  He asked me if I would make for him two cabinets for his audio equipment and also to put his tv on.
So I went over to his house and measured the area where he wanted to put the cabinets.  From his specifications I made two drawings.  He reviewed the drawings and approved them.  He requested that the cabinets be made from white oak and finished a dark brown (Espresso).  
From the drawing I calculated the number of board feet that I needed and made a trip to Yoder Lumber in Millersburg Ohio.  They have great domestic lumber prices and good supply.  Monday, Doug Moulder and I drove down and picked up the rough sawn lumber.  I bought 4/4, 5/4 and 8/4 white oak for the project.
Yesterday I started to mill the rough sawn stock to size and today I finished.  So, now I have all the stock rough cut.
Tomorrow I can start to join the frame for the cabinets.
So here is today's video:

Applying the Finish to the TV Cabinet

Well I have applied 6 coats of Waterlox Original Finish to the cabinet.  One per day with a rag.
You can see that there has been a build up of the finish and a lot of dust nubs.  I am going to apply one more coat tomorrow and then put the piece aside for a week or two for the finish to cure.   Once it has hardened I will use 400 wet or dry sand paper with mineral spirits to flatten the finish and remove the dust nubs.   After that I will apply a furniture wax and buff the surface to the gloss that I want.  I'll do a video when I get to that point.
So here is today's video.

Working on the TV Cabinet

I received the hinges the other day, so now I can cut the mortises in the doors and fit them to the cabinet.  I used a router plane to shave off the material in the hinge mortise. I think it works better than the traditional method of using a chisel and chopping the mortise.   I attached the hinge on the door and then match the mortise on the cabinet.  The doors where a little large so then I had to plane off a little to make them fit correctly.
Once the doors were fitted I wet down the cabinet to raise the grain and when it was dry I sanded with 320 grit paper so get it smooth again.  Pre-raising the grain is often used when applying water based dye.  Then I sprayed the dye and let it dry.  Then I rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool.
Vacuumed the dust and wiped it down with a clean cloth.
Now I am ready to apply the Waterlox tung oil finish with a rag.  I have just applied the first coat but it will take multiple to get a good build up of finish.
So here is today's video:

Reconditioning a Danish Wooden Smoothing Plane

Well I picked up a Danish wooden smoothing plane this weekend and I think it will be a good user.
I am waiting for the hinges to come from Rockler for the tv cabinet so to keep busy I thought I would spend some time on this plane and recondition it.
I did a little research on this plane since I could not find any maker mark on the plane body I thought it might be a little difficult to figure out.  But the plane iron had the name Erik Anton Berg.  It turns out that the plane is Danish made and probably had JPBO on it somewhere. It stands for Johan P. Bendixen Odense.  The firm is no longer in business since bankruptcy in 1992.  The plane was probably made in the 1970's.   The Danish did not make the steel so they turned to the Swedes to make the irons.  That is why the name on the blade is Swedish.
The wooden body is in good condition but could use some cleaning.  The blade needs grinding since it has a lot of nicks in it.  So, I started by taking all the dirt and rust of the blade and cap iron.
I used sand paper and a wire brush.  Then I started to grind the iron at 25 degree angle on the Worksharp at 120 then, 220, etc.  You will see the progression in the video.
Once I got a decent edge on the iron with the Worksharp, I switched to hand honing.  I used the 3M micro sheets at 5 microns and .05 microns.   I added a minor camber to the blade.
All I did was set the iron and tried it out on a piece of maple.   I have some more work to do to get it running good but I thought I would let you know how I was doing with it.
Here is the video:

SAPFM Meeting and Turret Top Tea Table Plans

This weekend I attended the spring meeting of the Ohio River Valley Chapter of the SAPFM in Rio Grande, Ohio.   We met  at the University of Rio Grande. The university's  Fine Woodworking program has hosted quite a few of our meetings and Eric Matson who runs the program is a great host.  There were presentations on saw sharpening, making a lowboy and a group discussion on finishing.  We had a great meeting.

The show and tell is one of the better parts of the meeting where members bring what they have been working on to show the group.  Here is a Newport Tea Table that one of the members brought. It is quite beautiful.

I have had several people ask me for the plans for the turret top tea table.  They are full size with a cut list.  So here you go.

If you want the PDF's email me at dboeff@sbcglobal.net

Progress on the TV Cabinet - Making the raised panel doors

Well I got back into the shop today and made the raised panel doors.  I used the tenoning jig on the table saw to cut the bevel on the door fronts.  I should have make a proper jig but was too lazy.
So as a result, the back end of the door panel was slightly thicker than the top.  So I had to hand plan the bevel to even out the thickness.  So there are no short cuts, I spent as much time as I would have to build the jig to do it right.
I sanded the panels and frame parts, since I am going to stain them now.  This is because the panels will shrink in the winter and show bare wood if you don't stain prior to assembly.
So I had my wife pick out a stain color and I finished the doors prior to the glue up.
So here is today video:

SAPFM Presentation at the Detroit Institute of Art - Working Wood in the 18th Century

Well it was back to Detroit this weekend for a presentation by the Great Lakes Chapter of the SAPFM at the Detroit Institute of Art on working wood in the 18th century.  I had a great time and met a lot of wonderful people who came to the museum to learn a little about how things got done in the 18th century.  We were set up in the grand foyer with a furniture display and demonstrations.

I brought my turret top tea table and the walnut Chippendale chair.

 Jim Crammond demonstrating a Treadle Lathe

 Ed Stuckey's beautiful table

Yours truly carving a ball and claw foot 

SAPFM Great Lakes Chapter Meeting March 22 and March 23

Well, I have been busy with meetings lately.   March 22 and 23 was the Spring meeting of the SAPFM Great Lakes Chapter.  They were nice enough to invite me to come on Sunday March 23 and bring my Turret Top Tea Table and talk about the construction.
So I got up early and drove to Detroit with Doug Moulder to make the presentation.  We had a great time and I got to see some of the other pieces that the members have made.

David Turner talking about his handkerchief corner table.

 Doug Moulder and Bob Compton looking at Doug's Jefferson Writing Desk

 I get to talk about my Turret Top Tea Table.

Progress on the TV Stand

Well I have made some progress on the TV Stand.  I have glued up the top and then routed a edge around on 3 sides.  Then after sanding I drilled elongated holes in the sub structure for the screws to hold on the top.  The top will expand and contract with changes in humidity, so the elongated holes allow the top to move.
I milled the material for the doors and used my router set to make cope and stick frame for the solid raised panel doors.  I used a piece of scrap wood to make a sample raised panel door for my wife review and hopefully approve.
Lastly I attached the turned feet to the cabinet with glue and a single 2 1/2 inch screw.  I plugged the screw hole on the inside of the cabinet.
So here is today's video:

TV Stand Progress and Glue Up

Well I make the panels for the carcass of the TV stand and cabinet.  I also sanded them to 220 so I think we are ready for glue up.
This glue up has a number of parts so it is kind of complex and I am kind of slow, so I am using Titebond 3 which has a longer open time and I will move as fast as I can but try not to get sloppy with the glue.
After the glue up, I clamp the frame and check for square and then clean up the excess glue.
So, here is today's video.

Starting a New Project for My Wife - 21st Century Furniture - TV Stand and Cabinet

Well I have to do a project for my wife, she wants a tv stand for the parlor.  We picked out a design from a web site and made some modifications to suite her desires.   SWMBO.  Look it up if you don't know what is means.
I have decided to make it from poplar and stain to match the color she wants.  We will pick that out later.
I made a scale drawing and got approval to proceed.  I have a quite a bit of wide poplar on hand so I can dive in.
She wants turned feet to match the chair that is in the parlor, so I am going to start with the turning.
I do not have 16/4 poplar to turn but I have maple so that is what I am going to use.
So here is today's video:

Improving the Performance of the Plane by Cambering the Iron and Adding an Oil Finish

I worked on the plane today and decided to camber the blade since it was leaving plane marks from the corners of the iron.  It was cutting ok but not leaving a smooth surface.
I decided to use the Chris Schwarz method.  If you have a guide with a center wheel, then you can press on the corners to rock the blade.  By pressing on the corners and honing more strokes on them and working your way to the middle using less strokes you end up with a camber.
It works pretty good, I started with 220, then 400, 15microns, 5 micorns, and .05 microns.  The iron is sharp and has a camber.  It performed much better.  I then ground the top of the iron and finished the plane with Minwax Antique Oil.
The plane is done.
Here is today's video:

Completing and Testing the Wooden Coffin Smoother

I got a lot done today because I spent the whole day in the shop.  The weather was terrible with rain turning to snow and high winds.  If you didn't have to go out, it was a good day to stay in!
So, I spent some time bedding the iron.  Finally got it to the point it was resting on the entire bed.
Then I ground the 3/16 inch thick steel to a 30 degree bevel.  I then heated the iron to red hot and squelched in oil.   Then tempered at 375 degrees for an hour in the oven.   I used my Worksharp to hone the cutting edge to razor sharp.   I set the iron and did some test cuts.  It is working ok but it will need some fiddling. I'll work on that tomorrow.
Here is today's video:

Bedding the Iron on the Coffin Smoother is a lot of work

Well I received the steel for the plane iron yesterday and sawed off 6" of the 5/32" O1 steel.   This is the size that the plan calls for.  I will start with that but if the mouth gets to large than I have some 3/16" steel for backup.  When I roughed out the bed and mouth I must not have been very careful because the bed is not very flat and it is going to take a lot of work to get it acceptable.
I mark the back of the iron with dry erase marker and bang the iron threw the mouth to leave marks on the bed.  The high spots have marks and these I can shave down with the floats.
It is a slow process but I have to get the bed completely flat.
So here is today's video.

Working on the Coffin Smoother

I am still waiting for the steel to make the iron and fit it to the bed.  So while I am waiting I decided to make the wedge and the start to shape the body.
To make the wedge I made a jig to hold the wedge at 10.5 degrees so I could run it through the table saw.  I used double back tape to hold it in place.  Then I used bench chisels to do the rest of the work.
I used the bandsaw to rough out the shape and the plane floats to start to smooth it.
Here is today's video

Completed the Turret Top Tea Table

Well I rubbed out the dust nubs with 0000 steel wool after waiting 5 days for it to harden.  It was a lot of work.  Too many small corners on this table.  After vacuuming and wiping down the table to get all of the steel wool dust  off of the table I applied a paste wax and polished it with a soft cloth.
I reattached the top and it is finished!
So here is the last video of the table.

Some Progress on the Coffin Smoother Plane

Well I worked on the mortise and mouth of the Coffin Smoother Plane that I am making.  I used a flush cut saw to cut the lines for the abatement in the inside of the plane.  Then I used paring and bench chisels along with plane makers floats to clean out the mouth of the plane.  I have going as far as I want to go with the plane until I get the steel for the blade.  I need to flatten the bed of the plane but can not do that until I have the steel to bed the iron.  So I am going to stop for now until the steel gets delivered.
Here is today's video.

Making a Wooden Coffin Smoother Bench Plane

I am waiting for the shellac to harden on the turret top tea table I have just completed, it will take at least 4 to 5 days for it to be ready for rub out.   So, while I am waiting I thought it would be a good time for a small project that I have been thinking about for a sometime.   I am going to make a Coffin Smoother wooden bench plane.   I have wanted one for quite some time and I have the qtr sawn beech lumber left from when I was making the hollows and rounds.
I checked the web and knew that Caleb James had made one and he was nice enough to post his drawings on his blog.  Doug Moulder had made 3D drawings of the inside of the wooden plane he made and Caleb posted them on his blog as well.    I selected the size of the iron I wanted to use to be 1 3/4 inch.  It is about the size of a Stanley #3 and the steel is readily available.  I ordered 5/32 inch stock as Caleb suggested.
I scaled up Caleb's  drawing for the larger iron size and wrote the dimensions on the drawing.  I cut and squared up the plane body blank from the qtr sawn beech.   I marked out the bed, breast and abutment lines and prepared to remove the material in the opening.  This is the most difficult part of the plane making.  You have to be careful to create a flat bed at the correct angle.  I am using a 55 degree bed angle.
I got about half done today.  So here is today's video

Warm Weather and a Good Time to Spray Shellac

It was a warm day today by comparison to what weather we have been having it got up to 45F.

I am able to open the shop door and run a exhaust fan to help remove the spray mist.   I wear a mask with new cartridges.   I mixed up some dark and blonde  de-waxed shellac yesterday so I was all set to go.   I wait between 15 to 30 minutes between spray coats.  I use a 1 1/2 lb cut to spray and adjust the spray gun to apply a light coat to help prevent runs.   So, all went pretty well and the shellac is applied.  Now I will wait 4 or 5 days before I sand and steel wool to remove the dust nubs and orange peel.  So here is today's short video.