I have my template from making the drawer blades, so I am using that to trace out and size the drawer fronts.
I selected the stock from a large 8/4 cherry board that I used a portion for the bracket feet. I purchased this board with the intent it would be used for the drawer fronts. This picture is the smaller portion of the board which was used for the bracket feet. The board was originally 12 feet long and 15 inches wide. It had great looking grain as well.
I selected the grain pattern that I wanted and chopped and ripped the board into four pieces approximately the size of the drawer fronts. You can see my template in the lower portion of the picture.
The boards are still slightly wider and longer than I need but I cut them to size soon.
I traced the pattern on to the top of the drawer fronts.
Now I chopped and ripped the drawer fronts to the exact size, prior to bandsawing out the front curve.
Here are the drawer fronts fit into the chest openings prior to bandsawing. It is good to know that they fit while they are square before cutting out the shape.
Bandsawing out the front only. It is good to have a flat square reference surface while planning and finishing the fronts. I used a 3/8 inch band saw blade here but I did not get good results with the cuts. It left a lot of work to clean up, maybe it was not sharp or I didn't have the saw set up well.
You can see that these are not the cleanest bandsaw cuts that I have ever made. At least I left extra material that needs to be removed to make the actual curves. However I did not expect it to be that bumpy.
I haven't used my compass plane since I made my bombe chest, but I think this is the perfect application for this plane. I start by smoothing out the two convex curves on both ends of the drawer front. I have the compass plane set to take small shavings. I make frequent trips to fit the drawer front into the opening and check the progress. I want it to match the opening exactly.
Working this direction is great, but going in the opposite direction I hit the bottom of the curve too quick and can not complete the curve. I have to use my curved bottom spokeshave.
Nice thing about the compass plane is that it can plane both curves just by adjusting the plate by turning the center screw. It takes some practice to get the plane sole just right to match the curve so you can take good shavings. Here I am clearing out the bottom of the curve.
The wooden coffin smoother plane you see in the background is used for quick roughing the convex shapes before using the compass plane. It is a nice small plane and easy to use.
Not a great picture of me using the plane on the concave curve. Watch the video, it does nice work. I am still making frequent trips back to the chest to check the progress of the curve against the drawer blades. I want it to fit exactly.
One drawer front fit. Looking good. I may have to do some fine tuning later. On to the next drawer.
The second drawer front was easier than the first because it is getting smaller. Also I want to mention that I am using a card scrapper to clean up the plane marks after I achieve the matching curve that I want. That will save me a lot of sanding later.
Last drawer front. Like most tasks, I am just getting the hang of it as I am finishing. But I am glad to be done with the planning and scrapping.
All of the drawer fronts are done now. It's good to have this completed, now all I have to do is cut out the backsides (which don't have to be as pretty as the fronts) and dovetail the drawer sides and back.
I like the grain pattern on the drawer fronts. On to making the drawers, sides and backs.
Here is today's video:
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