Chapin High Chest of Drawers - Making Crown Molding with H&R Step 11

The next step will be to make the crown molding for the top sides and the front of the upper chest.
Below is a picture of the side molding on the upper chest. It starts with an ogee, then 3 flats, the a cove, followed by a bead.

This is a photo that I took at Yale when I was studying the Chapin Highboy.

Doug Moulder made me a full size drawing of the molding with his C.A.D. software.  This will make it easy for me to copy the pattern.

The molding is 1 3/4 inches wide by 2 1/2 inches high.  I milled some soft maple to that size and pasted the molding pattern to the edges.  This will make it easier to matched the profile to the wood.

Here I am using a 1/4 inch dado setup to remove the waste material so that I can use my hollow and round planes to cut the profile.  I have created steps here for the ogee portion of the molding.

Now I have to take out the material for the flats and the cove.

I am taking out the last little bit with a regular saw blade because of the size of the cut.

Now I have to saw off the support piece and leave enough material for the bead on the bottom of the molding.

I added the bead on the bottom with the router. I learned later that I should do this last, but then again this is what practise is for.

Ready for the hollows and rounds. Here I am using a 1/4 round to make the hollow upper part of the ogee.

Then I used a 1/4 hollow to create the round on the bottom of the ogee.  Here is the ogee complete.

Now for the cove. I am using a 1 inch round here to remove the material for the cove.

Everything went well, except I ran over the bead. This will not work since I can not get that close to the bead with my round molding planes.

Doug Moulder brought over his side round molding planes, these are flat on one side and round on the other.  There is a matched set one for each side.

The side rounds are what I needed to get close to the bead but not cut into it as you can see in the picture below.

Doug also brought his snipes bill planes.  There are used to start a bead in the middle of a board, they are also matched pair for left and right planing.  We weren't sure that we would need them. As it turn out we did not.

Now the molding looks good, I have had enough practise so now I need to do this with the cherry stock and then miter and mount on the top of the chest.

Here is today video:

Chapin High Chest of Drawers - Capitals & Quarter Columns Step 10

After completing the two cases it is time to work on the fluted quarter columns in the corners of both the upper and lower case.

I have some good photos that I took of the quarter columns, base and capitals when I visited Yale to study the Chapin highchest.  I also took measurements.

The first thing that I did was to glue up four pieces of 1 inch stock with craft paper in between the pieces so I could take it apart later.

Started to turn the stock by getting it round.

Marked out the various beads and cove.  It looks big but the total length is only 1 1/2 inches in length.

Turning the beads and cove on the base.

The first one (base) that I did was a little too small by about 1/16 of an inch.  It was good practise. I did it over again and then turned the capitals.

After two times I got it correct and here is how they will look. I left them a little long so that I can trim them to size later when I fit them with the full fluted quarter column.

Now I need to glue up four 1 inch pieces 36 inches long of cherry for the quarter columns. I put craft paper between each piece so I can get them apart later. Then clamp it and let it dry.

My turning is not that good to make a 36 inch cylinder 1 3/4 inches round consistent the entire length.
I roughed out the turning by knocking off the corners to begin to make it round.
Using the jig that I made for cutting the flutes I used a router with a 1/4 inch bit to finish the turning and make a consistent cylinder the entire length by running the lathe and the router at the same time.
It left the surface a little rough but I cleaned it up with a little sand paper.

Now for the flutes.  I marked the cylinder with four flutes in each quarter and using a 3/16 inch router bit is cut the flutes in the lathe by positioning the stock for each cut in the center at the top and then locking it in place.  The flutes are actually less then 1/8 of an inch deep.

Some of the hardest work was splitting apart the quarter column without damaging it.

Then I had to scrape off the glue and paper from the back side of the columns.

Trim them to length and carve the matching ends of the quarter columns into the base and capitals.

Ready for glue up on one side.

Added the filler blocks and glued up all four.

Completed the quarter columns on the upper and lower chests.

Next step will be the crown molding.

Here is today's video:

Chapin High Chest of Drawers - Drawer Runners & Back - Step 9

I have been traveling for about 3 weeks, so I have had limited shop time.  I visited my daughter in Colorado Springs, friends in Wisconsin and WoodWorking in America in Cincinnati. I am glad to be home to rest up.

In the last post I was preparing to build the drawer runners and guides.  I cut the strips from 7/8 inch pine.

I have added a piece of pine filler at the top of the chest which will be covered by molding and the lattice.

Inside I have added a kicker above the top 3 drawers so they will not tip too much.

 The side runners are setting in 1/8 inch deep dados. There are not any dust panels since the original Chapin chest had only one dust panel above the drawer that had a lock.  I decided that I would not have any.

 With all of the parts made and fitted, I next glued up the upper case.  Lots of clamps and hide glue and let it set up for a day.

I added the drawer runner and guides the next day since they could be added from the back. The top assembly is for the 3 small drawers

The simple drawer runners are glued about 4 inches in the front and a single nail in the back.

Now I started on the back of the chest. I milled some 1/2 inch pine panels for shiplap siding which I will use to make the back.

I have to add a bevel to the edges so that it will slide into the 1/4 inch groove that I put around the back of the case. I used a large panel raising router bit to cut the bevel, but a hand plane or table saw could have been used.

Here is the back all fitted to the groove in the back.  I will put a couple of nails in the bottom of the last board to hold it in.  With the shiplap panels there will be room for shrinking, but as hot and humid it is in the shop I don't think it will ever get any larger.

Lastly, I added the outer drawer guides, these keep the drawers from moving side to side. They are glued to the drawer runners not to the side of the chest.

The upper chest with the back and the drawer runners is now to heavy for me to lift, Doug Moulder came over yesterday and helped me place it on the base.  Everything fits ok.  We then took it out and placed it back on the assembly table.

 

I started to look into making the quarter columns, fortunately they are 34 inches long and my lathe is 36 inches between centers maximum.  Lucked out on that one

The next post and video will tackle the quarter columns.

Here is today's video: