19th Century Clerks Desk - Breadboard Lid & Bottom - Step 5

I started preparing for the bottom of the desk by putting a 1/4 inch groove 1/2 inch from the bottom of the desk.  This will allow for the half inch material bottom.

Gluing up 1/2 inch poplar for the bottom.

I put a bevel on the edge all the way around to fit into the 1/4 inch groove.  The bottom is completely enclosed but is smaller then the opening allowing for expansion and contraction of the solid wood. It is just loose fit into the groove.  

Gluing up the frame with the bottom in the groove.  I used Old Brown Glue.  Made sure that the frame was square.

Next I made a story board for the bread board ends.  This is real helpful in layout, it allows me to see what I have to do and it means I only have to measure once. All the dimensions are on the board.

The lid is 16 inches wide so I have to glue up two pieces.  I'll scrape off the excess glue once it sets up but before it gets hard.

I cut two pieces to 16 inches long by 2 1/2 inches wide.  I put a 1/4 inch grove in the entire length.  Using the story board, I laid out where the 1 1/2 inch deep by 2 1/4 wide mortises need to be.

Then I used my hollow chisel mortiser to cut the 1/4 mortises into the end pieces 1 1/2 inches deep.

With the lid cut to size and the 15 degree bevel cut on the top side, I set up the dado in the table saw to cut away the material to leave a 1/4 tenon 1 1/2 inch long.  This will require multiple passes since the dado is only 3/4 inch wide.

I check the fit after the first pass.  The tenon is a little too thick but I can plane it down later for a nice tight fit.

Now that the 1 1/2 tenon is on both ends, I use the story board again to layout the cutting pattern.

You can see the 1/4 all along the bottom and then the x's marking out the waste.

Using my expensive $15 coping saw to cut out the waste.  I clean up the cutouts with a coarse file.

Using my hand plane to clean up and fit the tenons.

Dry fitting the breadboard ends on to the tenons, making sure they fit proper.  A couple of things that make this work well is to make sure the 1/4 groove is exactly in the middle of the end piece and that the mortise is straight in the depth.  If they are not, you are going to have trouble fitting and lining up the bread board end.  

Checking the size and fit after the dry assembly.  Looks good.

I pre-drill the bottom holes on the lid so that I can elongate the hole in the tenon to allow for movement of the pegged hole.

Elongating the holes.

Gluing up the lid and putting in the pegs. I clamp it to a flat surface to try to keep it flat during the clamp up.  Peg hole are drilled 11/16 deep from the bottom so they don't show on the top.

Now all I have to do is pare off the pegs and remove the excess glue squeeze out.  I check to see that the lid is still flat after glue up.

Looks good, still flat.  Now for the hinges.

Here is today's video:  I had to do  it twice because Youtube blocked the first video because of copyrighted music playing in the background on the radio.  So I deleted the audio from that section and did a voice over.  I guess I'll have to turn the radio off when I am filming.