Drop Leaf Cherry Table - Rule Joint and Making the Top - Step 4

I decided to tackle the rule joint for the drop leaves next.  I did some research found a couple of old articles in Fine Woodworking on how to make a rule joint.  I could use my hollows and rounds but as it happens I need a 5/8 inch round over with 1/8 fillet and a matching hollow.

 I just happen to have a 5/8 inch round over and matching core box router bit.  I used some scrap cherry that I had which I milled to 3/4 inch.

I made multiple passes to sneak up on the final size.  As you can see here there is 1/8 fillet before the round over and cove begin.
I had ordered hinges from Horton Brasses last week and they arrived on Monday.
So now I need to layout and cut the mortises for the hinges.

There is a long and short side to the hinge and of course a deeper area where the barrel of the hinge rests.

I used my Lee Valley router plane to cut these mortises.

I am cutting both mortises at the same time as I lower the blade of the router plane it makes it easier to get both of them to the same depth. After a little work I attached the hinge and placed it on the table frame.

One of the main reasons that I made the practice joint was to see that the 5/8 inch over hang was enough to allow the drop leaves to hang vertical.

Looks good. Now I can swing it horizontal.
I still have to design a support mechanism for the leaf but I do that later.  I am happy with the joint and hinge design.

Now I have to find material for the top.  It will be made from three pieces mitered in the center to make the 25 inches necessary to have long grain on the three sides.  They should come from the same board so the grain and color match.

I have three old cherry boards here which should work.  I need 7 1/4 inches by 25 inches for the top three pieces and 7 5/8 inches by 26 inches for the three drop leaves.  I want them to be all the same color.  Since the boards are triangles and curves I can work around defects in the boards.

After I mill the stock to 3/4 inch they look very good with a little quilting in the gain.  Should be a pretty top.

Cutting the top triangles is a real challenge for me.  I set up the radial arm saw at 30 degrees and made a template that I thought was perfect.  Then I used the template to set the saw angle with the teeth of the blade riding against the template.

Well two out of three isn't good enough.  The third one did not fit tight enough for me.

So I decided to scribe lines on to a new piece and hand saw the angles.

It worked pretty well but I still had to use a hand plane to finish the edges.

The gaps are closer but not perfect.

Now I added a groove on each of the joints which is 1/4 inch wide and 3/8 inch deep for a spline to hold things together.  As you can see when I will glue it there is a lot of end grain to end grain glue surface so a spline is required.

I built a frame with wedges to hold the triangle together as I glued up the three parts.

Even after I applied the wedges I couldn't get the joint lines as tight as I would like, so I am going to have to do something to make it look better.   Doug Moulder suggested that I put string inlay along the joint lines to fill them in.  I think it is a good idea.  I have to buy or make some contrasting stringing.

Next will be to put the rule joint on the edges when it dries.

Here is today's video: