Table Edge Scratch Stock - Complex Table Edge

I have started to work on the top of the dressing table.  I decided to cut out a full size template out of plywood to see how it looks and where the curves of the top match the curves on the drawer fronts.   The size and the curves look ok.

According to the book there is a complex molding profile on the edge of the table all the way around.  This is unusual since the edge is usually not finished in the back.  But I guess I will follow what was done originally.

This is a drawing of the tables edge and the corner carvings.  I guess the reason they finished the back is so they could put this corner treatment on all four corners.

 
I don't have a router bit that would match this and molding planes can not be used on the front since it curves in and out.  So I need to come up with a plan.
I have run some tests and can get close by using three different router bits.  A standard table edge with a large bearing, a 1/4 inch quarter round for the underside, and a 3/8 inch quarter round for the front nose.  It gets me close.

And this is what it looks like after those three steps.
The good part is that they all use a bearing so they can be used on the curved front.

You can see that there is a little material left to be removed on the slope of the curve.  Most of this can be removed with a hand plane on the straight sides but on the curves it will have to be scraped or carved.   So I will need a scratch stock to finish the curves.  So now I have to make a scratch stock.
You can use an old band saw blade for metal but this is bigger than any band saw blades I have, So I am using a putty knife.  Here I have scratched the profile on to the putty knife from the cardboard template.

Then I cut out the waste with a hacksaw and use my bench grinder with a 1/4 inch wheel to get near the profile.  I leave about 1/32 inch to be filed off manually with hand files.

Using my hand files I file the shape to the scratch line.  I check the shape against the cardboard template to make sure it matches.

Now a test run.  Using the piece of maple I had routed before it seems to work pretty good.

So now I remove the handle and clamp it in a scratch stock block that I had made before.  Ready to go.  I am going to make another test run before using it on the good mahogany.

Here is today's video: