Chipman Oxbow Chests Sides Dados & Dividers Step 2

In this post I start by dovetailing the sides to the bottom. The culls clamped to the sides are to help keep them flat until the case is assembled.  I think it helps a little.

Now that the dovetails are made I need to cut off the front edge of each side where it sits over the front molding.

I am using my japanese flush cut saw to carefully cut away the corner. I want the cut to be perfectly straight

Now the side can sit in the dovetails with the molding attached in the front.

Looks like a good fit, so the next thing is to cut the base molding at a 45 degree miter to match up with the side molding.  There is a base frame under the bottom of 3/4 inch thick secondary wood. The bottom is 7/8 thick with makes the total 1 5/8 inches.  This side molding is 1 5/8 inches high just like the front molding. The dovetails are only 3/4 inches high so the molding hides them by 1/8 inch.

I cut the miter on the chop saw and it matches the side molding very well.

The base frame under the bottom on the sides has a 1/4 inch tongue on the edge that fits into the 1/4 groove in the side base molding this helps it hold on and strengthen the side molding. The feet will be attached to the underside.

Next I milled and glued up stock for the drawer dividers.  These are 5 1/2 inches wide by 36 inches long.  The pine that they are glued to helps save the expensive mahogany.

I use a small washer to follow the curve to add 1/8 of an inch to the profile which allows for the cockbeading to be added to the front of the oxbow curve.
Three of the drawer dividers have two beads and the top divider only has one cockbead.
I cut out the curve on a bandsaw and cleaned up the edge and then put the 1/8 bead on the front with a router bit.

I used my story stick to mark out the dados for the drawer dividers and drawer runners.

Then I cut the dados 3/16 deep by 13/16. I also cut 3 inch dovetail sockets for the dividers except for the top one. 
There is also a 3/16 vertical rebate for the applied cockbeading on the sides and a 1/2 inch rebate in the back for the back panel.

The top drawer divider is dovetailed into the side with half blind dovetails. There is only one cockbead on the lower edge of the divider.

There is a 3/16 bump out on the edge to fit into the 3/16 rebate. There will be a 45 degree miter on the bead when I insert the vertical cockbead in the rebate.

That is the progress so far.  Next I will dovetail a straight crossmember in the back like the drawer divider in the front.  These stabilize the case and will be used with screws to fasten the top.
Once that crossmember is installed I can glue up the case.

Here is today's video: