Pennsylvania Chippendale Slant Front Desk Hinges Molding Bracket Feet Step 6

I have to finish putting on the breadboard ends on the lid. I drilled 1/4 inch holes and elongated the third hole. I only applied glue to the first two tenons, not the third.   I slipped on the end, clamped it and pounded in the pegs in the holes.  After they dried I flush cut the pegs.

The lid support lopers need to have stops on them when they are pulled out.  I drilled a 3/4 inch hole about 1/2 inch deep and put an oak dowel in the hole.  I did not glue it in, I want to be able to remove it after the desk is assembled if necessary.

I want to make sure that it extends the right distance and is firm to support the lid.

Now I need to install the hinges on for the lid.  I marked out the position of the hinges with a marking knife. Then set in the lines using a wide chisel.  After that I used my routing plane to remove the material.  I do the lid and the desk at the same time with the routing plane.

Once I get the mortises deep enough I install the hinges. Slotted screws get chewed up, so I will replace them when I finalize the desk.

Desk lid closes nicely.  I am done with this step.

I need to make the bottom molding. It is 1 1/8 high by 13/16 thick.  I have a large ogee router bit that works well to make the molding.  I make a 1 1/8 inch thick piece of cherry stock wide enough to make several pieces.  I run the end through the router bit and then rip off the molding on the table saw.  I repeat the process until I have enough for the base of the desk.

Now that I have enough molding, I miter the front piece and glue and nail it to the front of the desk.

 I miter a piece for the side of the desk and only apply glue to 6 inches in the front and then put in nails to hold it in place. This should allow for movement of the case sides without cracking.

Making the stock for the curved bracket feet.  To hollow out the cove I use the table saw to cut an ellipse where the cove needs to be. I make several light passes raising the blade a little each time.   This will get it close and then I will finish it with hollows and rounds.

I am using a plane to round over the outer curve.  I will use a scraper to smooth over the flats later.

Using my round wooden planes to finish off the cove I started on the table saw.

I use a scraper to finish the shape of the cove and remove the plane marks.

I made a custom scraper for the outside curve from a putty knife as I have done before. This cleans up the facets on the curve.

Now that I have the stock for the curved bracket feet, I trace the pattern on to the stock.  The front two feet cut outs  will be facing each other so that the grain runs continuously across the miter.

I used my chop saw to cut the 45 degree face miters on the front feet. You can see the pattern traced on the two sides.  The rear feet will have a piece dovetailed in the back.

I cut out the pattern on the band saw.

I glue the front feet together with tape that stretches. This holds them together tight.  I have preglued the end grain on the miter and let it dry. Then applied the glue again and taped them together.

For the rear feet I make dummy feet for the back and dovetail them to the inside of the rear foot with a half blind dovetail.

I add glue blocks to the inside of the front feet for additional strength.  There will be more glue blocks on the inside when I glue them to the bottom of the desk.

This is how they will look when glued to the bottom of the desk.

Here is today's video: