Townsend Kneehole Bureau Cockbeading & Bottom Molding Step 4

The next step for me was to start putting the cockbeading around the drawer openings.  First I had to make the cockbeading.  I took a piece of mahogany and milled it to 5/8 in. thick and 2 1/2 in. wide by 36 in. long. 

The cockbeading needs to be 5/8 in. so it will stick out 1/8 in. 

I used the same beading router bit I used to put the bead in the drawer dividers.

I made a pass on the router and then ripped off that piece at 3/16 of an inch and then repeated the process until I have enough pieces.

Now I have to cut them up to fit in the openings and add the miter end.
I used my 45 degree block to guide my Japanese detail saw to put the miter on the end

Then I used a marking knife to locate 1/8 in. from the edge and sawed down to it.  This detail saw has a thinner blade.

Then I sawed across the miter to remove everything except 1/8 in.

That is all that is needed, just an 1/8 in. miter.  Now to fit it in the drawer opening.

I should just fit exactly into the drawer opening. 

Now I can use a marking knife to match the miter.  I used an exacto knife here because it is thinner than my marking knife.

After marking the line, I used the exacto knife to carve away the 1/8 in miter bead. I could have used a sharp bench chisel as  well.

Here the miter has been removed.

I slip in the cockbead to see how well it fits.  Looks pretty good, so now I have to do the bottom one.

All of the cockbeading mitered and glued in.  They are sanded to 150 but I finish with a 180 grit later.

Now I turn my attention to the bottom molding.  It is made up of an ogee, fillet and flat.  1 3/8 in. high by 15/16 thick.  I made a sample out of soft maple to see how it would go, I need an 1/8 in. overlap on the front pieces. 

 I have to carve out the corners here to make a crisp turn which the router bit can not do. But that is about the only carving on the molding.

I made one side piece to see how it looked before starting using the mahogany.  I try to not waste the mahogany it is too expensive.

Here is the molding profile on the mahogany.

Glued and nailed in place.  The miters are pretty good, still need to clean up the glue squeeze out after it dries.

On the side pieces there is only about 6 inches of glue then a couple of nails in the rest of the side molding.  I don't want to trap the side with the molding. It could cause the side to split during seasonal expansion or contraction.

I added an extra piece in the kneehole for the door to rest on.  More on that later.

Looks like I am done with this step after I get the glue off.

Next I am going to start on the feet.

Here is today's video: